DIY Outdoor Storage Coffee
This dual functioning outdoor coffee table is a center piece and a storage piece. Bringing function and style to this patio. Built at 16” tall it is the perfect center piece for any outdoor patio. Plus with the added storage, you can keep all your outdoor entertaining supplies handy! Built of red wood and National Hardware (add link to web) items this table was built to last.
Overall Dimensions: 4’ x 28.5” x 16” tall
Check out the video Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntMzr4HsdzY&t=2s
1 4” x 4” x 8′ Rough ——— ————————————cut to: 4 14.5” Legs
2 2″x 6″ x 10’ Rough ———————————————- cut to: 2 4’ sides
———–————————————- cut to: 2 25.5″ sides
1” x 2” x 10’ Rough———————————————cut to: 10 1’ panel support
————————————-cut to: 2 42” long panel supports —————————cut to: 2 41” bottom ledge
2 1” x 7” x 8’ Smooth—————————————cut to: 4 4’ pieces panel top
3 1” x 4” x 8’ Rough————————————cut to: 2 18.5” bottom shelf
———————————————cut to: 9 25.5” bottom shelf
1 quart Stain/sealer
2 – 2 pks (4 total) 3/4” National Hardware Decorative knobs Antique Finish(Decorative link)
3 – 4 pks (12 total) 1”x 1/2” National Hardware Corner Braces (Corner Brace)
3 – 18 paks (44 total) #12 x 1 1/4” National Hardware Wood Screws (Wood screw)
16 – 4.5” x 3/8“ Structural wood screws
3 – 2 pks (6 total) 1 1/2” National Hardware Back Flap Hinges (Hinge Link)
1 pk 1.25” (32 mm) 18 gauge Brad nails (optional)
Miter Saw, chop saw or circular saw Drill & Driver
Drill Bit Kit
Air compressor Finish Nail gun and brad nails (Optional: Use screws as alternative) Paint brush/paint pad
1/4” Spacers (or make your own with lumber)
Outdoor Storage Coffee Table Step by Step
“This project was sponsored by National Hardware”
STEP 1: Lumber
Select your lumber! My favorites are redwood, cedar and Douglas fir for outside. I found this beautiful grained smooth redwood 1” x 7” (5/8” x 7 3/16”) redwood so that’s what I went with for the top and rough cut redwood for all the other pieces which give it more of a rugged outdoor feel. If you choose to use all smooth lumber you will have to make some adjustments as the rough cut is generally thicker. If you are making adjustments I’d recommend making your cuts as you go incase there are some adjustments that need to be made…if not make all your cuts first!
Optional: You can stain all your lumber now or at the end.
STEP 2: Build your panels
Layout your four top panels and elect the side you’d like to face up and flip them over so that the bottom side is facing up. Pair up two of the boards and use 3 1/4” spacers between the two pieces. Measure & mark 1 3/4” in from the outside edge (the side that will attach to the frame) place 4 of the 1’ 1×2’s. I measured 3” up from either side and placed the first piece and spaced the rest 1’ apart. They should measure 42” outside to outside. Pre-drill 4 holes in each piece and attach to the panel with #12 National Hardware wood screws. I did the outside pieces first, checking that the two boards stayed ‘square or lined up’ with my speed square.
After the 4 1’ pieces are attached add the 42” 1×2 in the 1 3/4” space lined up with each end and attach them in the same manner.
Next, repeat the steps and build the other panel!
STEP 3: Attach panel to side frame with hinges Cut your 2×6 frame pieces. Take one 4’ side piece and line it up with one panel so that they are flush. Find the center of each segment, mark with a pencil and transfer the mark to the top of the 2×6. Take your back hinge and place the bottom (flattest side) on top of the 2×6 lined up with one of the centerlines and attach with the provided screws. Repeat this step so that there are 3 hinges per panel.
Then find the center line on the panel and line up the other side of the hinge and attach.
STEP 4: Attach legs & build frame
Take the 2x6x 25.5” side frame piece and line up one 14.5’ 4×4 leg flush with the side and top. Use 2 timber ties to attach one leg to each side. Then attach this unit to one of the 4’ 2×6” sides in the same manner. It might be helpful to have an extra pair of hands to help hold it together. Repeat till you’ve created a rectangle frame. If you’re legs are not lining up on the last attachment, cut a 44.5” 1×2 and insert it to force it square temporary till it’s secured.
STEP 5: Attach Corner Braces
Measure one inch up from the bottom of the 2×6 side piece and mark it with a pencil. Line up an corner brace on the 4×4 post and the line market on the 2×6 and screw it into the 4×4 and the 1×2 redwood. Then attach one corner brace in the center and on the other end. Repeat this step on all sides of the frame.
STEP 6: Add the Bottom shelf boards
Drop in the 25.5” long boards and space them approximately every 1/4” there will be a little extra space, just visually divide it up among the boards. Then drop the two 18.5” boards on each side, you should have a total of 11 boards with all of them. Use a brad nail gun and attach the board to each 1×2 redwood support on each side. You can use screws and a drill if you don’t have a finish nail gun and compressor.
You’ll want to have some gaps between the board so if it rains it doesn’t collect in the shelf area.
STEP 7: Add 1×2 to top frame. Since the panels sit on 1×2’s on top of the frame its important to add a 1×2 to the short side of the rectangular frame so that the center of the panels is supported and does not sag.
STEP 8: Add a weather proofing stain. I chose Super-deck red cedar semi gloss. It really bring out the red in the redwood.