Level: Beginner to Intermediate
Cost: $$
Time commitment: 1 day
Professionals needed: None
Dimensions: 6’6″ × 6″
Tools
• Table saw (optional: you can buy 2″ × 2″ posts instead of
splitting)
• Router and bit
• Chop saw or miter saw
• Speed square
• Drill and bits
Materials
• Two 4″ × 4″ × 8′ pressure-treated posts
• Two 2″ × 6″ cedar posts, cut to 71″ (just under 6’)
• One 2″ × 4″ post, split in half and cut to get two 2″ × 1 3⁄4″ × 71″
boards (or use two 2″ × 2″ × 6′ posts if you don’t have a table saw)
• One 2″ × 6″ × 8′ post, cut to 6′ 6″
• Six 60-lb bags of concrete (for posts)
• 1 box of 3″ exterior screws
• Three 2′ × 2′ light-colored porcelain tiles with finish (they
are actually 231⁄2″ squares)
• One 1″ × 4″ cedar board, split in half and cut to 231⁄2″ for a
total of two 2″ × 1 3⁄4″ × 23 1⁄2″ pieces
• Two 2″ × 6″ × 6″ corbels (made by cutting a 2″ × 6″ at a 45° angle)
• Two 1 1⁄2″ × 23 1⁄2″ metal bars (or use lumber)
• Dry erase markers and eraser
• Four 1″ self-piercing screws (or predrill)
This is a fun project that assembles easily and is aesthetically pleasing as well. The porcelain tiles are framed in lumber to create a scoreboard or drawing board to keep track of points. You simply add some dry-erase markers, an eraser, and some erasing solution. If your tile is fairly porous, consider using a sealer so the tiles don’t absorb the dry-erase markers. Don’t limit yourself to keeping score; consider installing one of these as a noteboard or menu board for a kitchen space.
Step 1: Select a location and set the posts: Choose an area that is easily accessible to your bocce ball court or other game, or a spot where you can use a whiteboard for making notes. I choose to place the base of the scoreboard at roughly countertop height so it’s easy to see and the dry erase pens will be easy to grab! Dig the holes 20 inches deep and 1 foot wide, mix three bags of concrete per post and set the posts so that at least 18 inches are embedded in the concrete. Make sure the posts are plumb and measure 71 inches from inside to inside.
Step 2: Create the top and bottom frame: Take one of your 71-inch 2 × 6-inch boards and attach the 71-inch 2 × 2-inch board so it is flush to one side; repeat this step so that you have two separate units. Use exterior 3-inch screws to secure on each end, about 2 feet in on either side.
Step 3: Attach the frame to the posts: Measure 36 inches up from the ground level and attach one of the units made in the last step so that it lines up with the back of the 4 x 4-inch post. Use a speed square to make sure you have a 90° angle. It should protrude about 11⁄2 inches in front of the 4 × 4 post. Then, space the top one so you have an approximately 231⁄2-inch gap between the boards. Your porcelain tiles are 231⁄2 inches tall and will fit in this frame.
Step 4: Add the corbels: Use the miter saw to cut two 2 x 6 x 6 corbels. Predrill one hole about 11/2 inches up from the bottom; this will tie into the 4 x 4 post. Predrill another hole at an angle about 1 inch from the top; this will tie into the bottom horizontal board.
Step 5: Place the porcelain tiles: Now take your three tiles and place them so they rest on the bottom 71-inch 2 × 6-inch board and against the vertical supports you just attached. Space the tiles so you have approximately 1⁄4 inch between the two center tiles.
Step 6: Drill holes: Take the two 231⁄2-inch metal bars and use a metal drill bit to drill holes on the bottom and top center about 3⁄4 inch in from each side.
Step 7: Secure the tiles: Place one metal bar over the space to cover the gap and attach each one with 1-inch screws to the 71-inch 2 × 2-inch vertical frames on the top and bottom. Then repeat on the other gap.
Step 8: Secure the wood frame to the posts: Take your two 2 × 13 ⁄4 × 231 ⁄2 split cedar boards and flank them on the far side of the tile.
Secure them to the 4 × 4 posts with 3-inch screws. This will hold your tiles
in place.
Step 9: Router: Measure 3⁄4 inch in from the edge of the bottom 71-inch 2 × 6-inch piece and 2 feet from the center on either side for a 4-foot- long space. Use a router and a bit to create a 4-foot-long 1⁄2-inch dado groove.This will house the dry erase markers.
Step 10: Final touches: Use the 6-foot-6-inch 2 × 6-inch lumber and attach with 3-inch screws to each 4 × 4-inch post to overhang evenly. Now, try your calligraphy skills and invite your friends for a competitive game!
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