Pocket vertical garden bags are one of my favorite green wall methods because they are simple and effective.
Level: Beginner–intermediate
Cost: $$$
Time commitment: 1–2 days
Professionals needed: None
Dimensions: 11′ × 9″
Tools
• String line
• Wheelbarrow
• Shovel
• Circular saw
• 3’–6′ level
• Drill and 1⁄2″ × 10″ drill bit
• Garden gloves
• Trowel
• Level
• Four 2″ × 4″ × 10′ cedar boards cut to 9’ each
• Two 6″ × 6″ × 8′ cedar pressure-treated boards
• One 2″ × 6″ × 12′ cut to make two 5′ pieces
• One 2″ × 4″ × 12′ cut to make two 5′ pieces
• Four 41⁄2″ × 10″ through bolts
• Four 41⁄2″ × 11⁄2″ diameter washers
• Sixteen 50-lb bags of concrete
• One 1-lb box of 21⁄2″ screws
Materials
Wall
• Two 6″ × 6″ metal post bases
• Two 2″ × 6″ × 12′ cedar boards with detail cuts on ends
1″ from the bottom, 11⁄2″ from the top and 8″ in from the edge
Planter
• Three 5-pocket fabric garden pockets (I recommend WoollyPockets)
• 12 fasteners (provided in kit)
• Four 2-cubic-foot bags of potting soil
• Fifteen 1-gallon plants
• 1⁄4″ spaghetti drip tubing (optional)
Step 1: Build the structure and attach the bags. This support structure is simple and sleek. It is made of 6 × 6-inch posts and 2 × 6-inch and 2 × 4-inch stringers and offers the perfect area to attach garden pockets. Here is how it was built.
Set the brackets: Dig two 30-inch-deep 18 × 18-inch holes; mix and pour concrete. Set the post bases while the concrete is wet, and use a string line to ensure the posts are in line. Wait 24 hours, and then set your 6×6 posts in the bases with the included screws.
Build the frame: Cut the 8-foot posts down to 7 feet with a circular saw and then attach the two 12-foot 2 × 6-inch boards to the top with the lag bolts and washers. Use a drill bit first to predrill your holes. Start attaching one side, then use a level before attaching the other side.
Attach the runners: Attach the 9-foot boards between the 6 × 6-inch posts. The first runner starts 18 inches down from the top and is attached with 21⁄2-inch screws toenailed in from the top and the bottom. The next row starts 11 inches below the first so that the pockets will overlap when installed (they will be 13 inches from grommet to grommet). Repeat to attach the other two runners.
Add support: Since these pockets will be heavy when filled with soil, they can start pulling the runners down. To prevent sagging, add four support boards: two 5-foot-long 2 × 6-inch boards spaced about 3 inches in from the post and two 5-foot-long 2 × 4-inch boards spaced about 2 feet apart on the inside, running perpendicular across the back. These support boards attach to the pressure-treated runner that is attached to the fence (or attached to the structure if you aren’t placing it against a fence). Secure each runner to the support boards with 21⁄2-inch screws.
Attach the pockets: The grommets are spaced every 22 inches on the bags. Measure 1 inch down from the top of the first runner and predrill the holes, then add the screws and attach the grommets. You can build a similar structure or create something unique of your own. We used three five-pocket units that hold about two cubic feet of soil and are 15 inches tall and 112 inches wide. You can customize your wall to the pocket sizes or buy individual pockets as needed to fit the space. Hang the bag by slipping the grommets onto the screws.
Step 2: Select and lay out the plants: Your plant selection will vary greatly depending on whether you have full sun, part sun, or no sun. It is best to choose
various plants that grow upright and cascade down so you can cover the bags above and below. You can choose plants of all sizes. This style of gardening requires regular pruning as it grows. Place the plants in the pockets to find a layout that you like and adjust as needed.
Step 3: Add the soil: Fill the pockets about halfway with potting soil.
Step 4: Plant the plants: Fit the plants into the pockets. We used three plants per pocket, which makes the wall very full because the plants
grow quickly and robustly. All vertical walls are going to need maintenance, pruning, and removal of plants as they grow. Keep the soil level about 2 inches below the lip of the pocket after all the plants are installed.
Step 5: Run the irrigation (optional): These pockets have a sleeve sewn into the top of the bags for spaghetti drip tubing to run through. Having
this option in a vertical garden is great because these can dry out and heat up much quicker than ground plants. If you already have an irrigation system, you can connect your drip lines to this with some adaptations. You can purchase kits that hook up to a hose bib for an easier installation.
Regarding maintenance, expect to edit and change out plants as needed for the different seasons because some plants will outgrow the pockets.
While this system is set for drip irrigation, you can also hand water if you don’t have an irrigation system to tie into. Because these pockets hold only a little soil, the plants can dry out more rapidly than when they are in the ground, so make sure you can hand water two or three times a week or so during the warmer seasons.
Enjoy this beautiful backdrop for years to come, and add and remove plants as needed to keep it looking fresh.
Have you ever tried creating a vertical garden? If not, would you consider adding one to your outdoor space? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!
Do you need some guidance for your own garden project? Don’t hesitate to reach out—I’m here to help you transform your backyard dreams into reality! Let’s make your outdoor space shine!
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